Leaving Oxford on Friday was easier than I expected. Although the city is absolutely gorgeous and I loved my time there (and wished I'd had the chance to study in some of those hallowed halls), this particular summer in Britain has been unusually hot. Our rooms at the hostel were very stuffy and I wasn't sleeping particularly well. Plus, Tam & I had a room on the same side as the train station, and hearing the announcements of the trains starting early in the morning wasn't helping my sleeping situation either!
Friday was a big travel day -- we had to pack up from Oxford, hop on a train to Didcot Parkway, transfer to a train headed to Bristol, leave David behind to go rent a minibus (17 passenger van), and then head on to Nailsea where we met up with some folks from the church there to hang out at a local park until David returned with the minibus. Joyce (the mom of the family I stayed with) and Steve showed up with ice cream bars, a frisbee, and sunny smiles to greet us at the station. We sat in the shade near a small lake and tormented the Queen's swans for a while, waiting for David's return. (Saw the biggest swan I have ever seen on Planet Earth. Not exaggerating. It was a beast!)
Our "minibus" barely fits all 16 of us and our luggage. The giant pile of luggage covered two back seats in a tower of luggage doom, with more suitcases shoved into aisles and anywhere we could find a nook or cranny. I'm surprised the tires didn't just give out on us.
But we were on our way by 1pm to find lunch and then drive 4 hours into Cornwall.
Before Coart went on this trip last year, I didn't even really know (or care) that Cornwall existed as a distinct region in England. In brief: The English (Anglo-Saxons) managed to oppress the surrounding Celts over the millennium that we call the Middle Ages. Despite experiencing their own hard times during the Viking and Norman invasions, the English happily shoved the other tribes into the corners of the island, forming the nations we now call Scotland and Wales and Northern Ireland, as well as the region of Cornwall. Unlike the first three, Cornwall has no autonomy in its government. The Cornish language "died" in 1733 (I learned that from Jack) -- meaning that in 1733 the last Cornish-only speaker died. But plenty of people still speak Cornish (which is a Gaelic language) and the region boasts its own feisty independence movement. ![]()
As a geographical region, Cornwall refers to the western tip of the English island, that part which juts out across Western France and sits below Ireland proper. It's rocky, windswept, full of coves and coastal nooks, and gorgeous. Cornish dairy products are world famous. The land has lost pretty much all of its trees and depleted all of the tin deposits which drew the first people to that region (including ancient Romans). Now it's grazing land for sheep and cattle and a huge tourist attraction for Europeans wanting some beautiful coastline to enjoy.
We drove down the M5 motorway (insterstate) for a couple hours, then various dual-carriageways (like a 4 lane highway), and finally narrowed into country rural roads as David picked his way through multitudes of roundabouts to take us to the peninsula known as The Lizard. Forming the southernmost tip of land in all of Great Britain, The Lizard is a thumb of land jutting into the English channel above France. Treacherous rocks and currents have led to numerous shipwrecks on these shores -- beautiful but dangerous. The water is deep blue and the sea gobbles down the entire horizon before your eyes.
Returning to the topic of roads -- Cornwall's roads made us blanch at times. For example: We were riding down the road near the hostel on Saturday morning, headed out for a day's adventures, when suddenly Andy shrieked from the front passenger seat, "Ohmygosh there's a giant truck in our lane!!" Actually, there aren't really TWO lanes. It's a narrow road that some Roman probably cut with his chariot 2,000 years ago, and lately someone paved the thing. If you meet another vehicle, you can either wreck or find some way to back up to a slightly wider spot to let the other person pass by. Houses in the villages are built of granite and sit right on the "yellow line" of the road with no more than inches of room. Happily, we didn't really have any close calls this year, but Coart came home last year with a basketfull of them. ![]()
We stayed in the beautiful seaside town of Coverack, consisting of the stone village church and a pub and a quay and a couple guest cottages, a school, and the hostel. Our views were breathtaking. The first night, many of us walked out to the point (not the end of The Lizard, just a point of the coastline) to hear David play his pennywhistle and enjoy the sunset's golden light on the sea. The hostel actually faces east, so our view of the full moon's rise was stunning. It's a peaceful, restful part of the world.
We spent our 3 days in Coverack exploring mostly Tolkien-related sites. He spent much of his boyhood vacations in this region. Saturday we hit Tintagel, one of the candidates for King Arthur's fortress. If Arthur was a leader of the Celts who were trying to beat back the Saxon invasions in the late 400s, Tintagel makes geographic sense as a useful fortification. Regardless of the legends, the site includes both ancient Celtic and Roman ruins alongside 13th century medieval castle walls. Cool stuff.
Sunday was probably my favorite -- we spend a large portion of the day at Kynance Cove. One of the most gorgeous flat sand beaches in England, it boasts a sheltered inlet where waves crash, surfers skim along the waves, and sunbathers lie next to enormous rock formations scattered around the beach. We all found it hard to leave the place. A few went "cliff walking" along the high coastline into the town of Lizard 4 miles away. It really was incredible. The only mar in the day: Germany trounced England in the World Cup match that afternoon. A few of us were crowded into the only pub in Coverack to see the game on TV, and it was pretty ugly. (The game, not the locals.)
Exhaustion had set in with full force by this point, so Monday (our last day) found us walking slowly across the ancient causeway into Saint Michael's Mount (in another part of Cornwall). This medieval monastery and castle offered us gorgeous views of gardens and surrounding coastline. Really cool. I'm glad it was our last day's visit, for it didn't require enormous climbing efforts or gargantuan walks.
I must say, this has been a fantastic trip. We wrapped up our Inklings talks on Monday night with a quick trip through Tolkien's essay "On Fairy Stories" to discuss the elements of Recovery, Escape, and Consolation -- aspects of good story-writing which point us to the Gospel. David is writing all of this stuff into a book -- one that I highly anticipate owning. I hear that all the Inklings travelers will get a mention in the credits. ![]()

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